How Water Softeners Work.

Water softener systems are basically an appliance that treats incoming water to the home to remove hardness minerals (Calcium, Magnesium) present in water and provide softened water for the home to protect plumbing fixtures and water-using appliances to prevent hard water scale buildup and iron staining. Making the home run more efficiently.

Water softeners/conditioners are not the solutions to every water treatment problem. There is a myriad of water chemistry problems such as high iron, manganese, hydrogen sulfide, and low PH along with many other water problems that require different types of water treatment equipment to correctly treat the water.  The first step in determining the proper water treatment solution is a complete water analysis to determine the hardness, iron and other water chemistry issues that may need more treatment than a water softener.

Water softeners have six main components:

1. Control Valve
2. Distributor Tube
3. Water Softener Tank
4. Water Softening Resin
5. Brine / Salt Tank
6. Float Assembly

Water softener regeneration cycles:
1. Backwash
2. Brine draw
3. Slow rinse
4. Fast rinse
5. Brine refill
6. Service

Water softeners have to run/regenerate at some point to rinse off the hardness minerals the resin has collected and restore the sodium charge on the resin beads.  The regeneration cycles shown above are the most commonly used but may vary in the sequence depending on the particular water softener and manufacturer.  When not regenerating a water softener is normally in service mode.

Ion Exchange Process:  Sodium Chloride or Potassium Chloride (Water softener salt) is used to regenerate the water softener resin beads during the brine draw cycle. Sodium or Potassium displaces the hardness minerals the resin has collected during the service cycle and the hardness minerals are flushed to the drain.

Resin Regeneration Process

Water Softener Resin Comes In Many Color Variations

Polystyrene Water Softener Resin

Every water softener has a given amount of "capacity".  The amount of resin in the softener tank and size of the softener tank determine the total capacity and how many gallons of water can run through the water softener before it has to regenerate.
For example, a 9x48 water softener tank will have about 30,000 grains of capacity (1 cu ft of resin) and a 10x54 tank is about 45,000 grains of capacity (1.5 cu ft of resin).  Single tank water softeners, such as the Fleck 7000 above (Blue Tank), are factory set to regenerate at 2 o'clock in the morning (This is referred to as delayed regeneration) and takes anywhere from 60 minutes to over 2 hours for a complete regeneration cycle depending on the capacity and size of the water softener. A certain amount of resin is always left out of the total equation to have a little extra capacity on days with heavy water usage. This is referred to as the "Reserve". Typically one full day of water use is left as the reserve.


Older water softening systems operated on a "Time Clock" basis

Fleck 5600 Valve with a 12 Day Time Clock

and ran a certain number of days per week based on how many pins were set for days to regenerate. Time clock systems have 6 to 14 pins that determine how often it runs/regenerates.  These time clock model water softeners were very inefficient and frequently ran out of softened water when the capacity was exceeded. Which was usually on weekends when we all use 2-3 times the water than during the week. When a water softener runs out of capacity the resin is exhausted of softened water causing hard water to service. With a time clock water softener, there needs to be at least one day's water usage left in reserve to prepare for those heavy usage days. With more modern water softeners reserve capacity is not as important because they are constantly metering the water usage and adjusting the regeneration cycles to accommodate the changing water needs (depending on the manufacturer and model).

Modern water softening systems regenerate on gallons used and are much more efficient as they only regenerate when needed and tend to have better consistency of softened water.
There are basically three types of water softeners "Cabinet Models", "Single Tanks" and "Twin Tanks".  A single tank water softener refers to any water softener with one softener tank and a salt tank.  This may be one as shown at the top of this article (Fleck 7000) or what is referred to as a cabinet model (Shown here on the right) where the water softener system is built into the salt storage tank. Cabinet model water softeners tend to be the least expensive, and are installed by many DIY'ers but also tend to only last 3-7 years so you get what you pay for with this style softener.  They also tend to be very inefficient at removing iron from well water.

An even more efficient option for your water softening system is a "Twin Tank" water softener as 

Twin Tank Water Softener

shown here. This style water treatment system actually has two water softener tanks.  One tank is in service (supplying soft water) while the second tank is in standby.  This type of water softener is a true on-demand water treatment system. When one tank becomes almost exhausted of softened water it regenerates immediately and switches to the standby tank that goes into service. Twin Tank softeners normally regenerate during the day when water is being used.  Twin Tank systems use a portion of softened water from the second tank to clean the tank that is being regenerated so they tend to be very efficient at salt usage, iron removal, supply the best quality water, the most consistent quality of softened water and have fewer service issues because they are regenerating with clean/soft water.

For the best, durability, serviceability, reliability, and longevity and quality of water I recommend a separate water softener and brine tank system.  A separate water softener and salt storage tank can last well over 20 years.  If you decide to install your own water treatment system it pays to consult with a local plumbing supply house or local water treatment company that sells "cash and carry" water treatment systems, (NOT the box stores).  They can be a valuable resource to help you choose the proper system, setting it up, future technical/service support and test your water to find the best water treatment system to treat your water.  Having a water analysis done by an independent water testing lab is also a good idea.  An independent lab can test for bacteria, arsenic, lead and other concerns that a plumber or even a water treatment company would not normally do.  A thorough water analysis from a licensed lab can be a useful reference for the future also.  If you seek help from a professional water treatment company be sure to check them out thoroughly online.  Angie's List, Google Reviews, Yellow Pages, Yelp and various other sites can be a valuable resource to check their work, reviews and customer satisfaction.  There is a lot of advice online from so-called water softening sites and experts but I have found much of the information to be very misleading and quite often just uninformed advice from people that have never been in the water treatment business.

I hope this information and future blog articles can assist you in your search for the proper water treatment system for your home and family.  If you do choose the proper water softener system for your needs and maintain it properly there is a good possibility of it lasting 20 years or more.


I Wish You Good Water and Good Days!

R.J. DeChene
The Water Softener Blog


More information is available regarding topics of this blog in the links below:

How Softeners Work - YouTube

Water Softener Facts

Wikipedia - Water Softening

Whirpool - Water Softener Basics

Water Softener Salt

PSU Extension - Water Treatment

© Copyright 2016 The Water Softener Blog. All rights reserved

"Water Filters" part 1 - When, What, Why and How to use a filter.

"Water Filters". Water filters cover the gambit from simple faucet filters, refrigerator filters, in-line filters to filter housings with a replaceable filter cartridge to all types of whole house backwashing / regenerating filtration systems that remove, iron, odors, manganese, radium, lead, turbidity and a plethora of other water problems.  This subject covers such a wide range of water problems it could take many blog articles to cover just the basics for water filtration.  One thing I know for sure is what the typical consumer considers to be a water filter and what a water treatment professional would consider a water filter is totally different.

In this first "Water Filters" article we will look at filter housings and filter options.  Water filters installed for the whole house are referred to as Point of Entry (POE).  Water filters used for specific locations, like under a kitchen sink, are referred to as Point of Use (POU).  The most basic filtration is a filter housing with a replaceable filter cartridge.

Filter housings come in almost any size for many different uses.  A standard filter housing for residential whole-house use would be 3" x 10" (lower left in picture) up to 4" x 20" (upper right in picture).

The problem is these replaceable filter cartridges are sold everywhere for rust, sediment, odor and chlorine removal for water and although they will definitely help reduce those things, depending on what filter is used, they are not always the best options to do so and can plug up quickly causing replacement of filters frequently. This can be a very expensive proposition as filter cartridges vary in price from a couple dollars to over a hundred dollars.  They can also significantly reduce water pressure and water volume.  These style filters were very popular when well casings were steel.  With steel well casings, scale, sediment, and rust commonly come off the inside of the well casing causing service issues with water treatment equipment. Cartridge filters, before a water softener, were a necessity to remove any sediment coming from this type well.  Today most drilled wells use PVC casings so the scale and sediment issues have pretty much been resolved to the point where filter housings generally are no longer necessary.  A good example where such filters are still an economical choice with good results would be with the water issues in Flint, MI.  Using a simple filter housing, with a block carbon filter, under the sink and tied into the kitchen cold water will greatly reduce the lead content, chlorine, and the turbidity issues for drinking water.  Although the filters would need to be replaced frequently, depending on how much water is used and the incoming water quality.

Replaceable filter cartridges are rated by "micron size" and/or specific contaminant removal.  Filter cartridges come in micron ratings from .35 mic, .5 mic. 1 mic absolute on up to 50 microns.

Cord wound, Pleated and Polyspun Filter cartridges

Examples:
1.  A 10-50 micron sediment filter may be used before a water softener.
2.  An activated carbon filter may be used for chlorine reduction.
3.  A dual gradient filter such as a DGD 2501 removes larger particles on the outside (25 microns) and
increasingly smaller particles as it passes toward the center of the filter to (1 micron) and is generally used as pre-filtration for laboratory use, machinery and reverse osmosis systems.

The specific filter you may need depends on the particular water problem that needs addressing.  If it's for sediment removal, before a water softener, I would recommend a 20-50 micron sediment filter preferably in a 4"x 10" or 20" BB housing. Cord wound, Poly spun or Pleated filter cartridges are recommended for sediment removal.

There are many different types of carbon and carbon filters for different water problems. As discussed earlier block carbon filters can be used to reduce lead content in drinking water.  Another concern with municipal water supplies are "Chloramines" which is a combination of chlorine and ammonia additives that are added to municipal water supplies for disinfection.  There are specifically formulated carbons to remove chloramine in your drinking water.  Before using any filter for specific drinking water issues check the NSF guidelines for filter certification based on particular contaminant removal.

Block carbon filters 

Filter Changing Tips:
 1.  Always change filter cartridges at regular intervals.  For whole house filters, you should change them every three months or sooner depending on water quality and the amount of water used.
 2.  If you find you have difficulty removing the filter housing initially. Make sure the incoming water is off.  Open a nearby faucet to relieve the water pressure, hold the pressure relief valve down, close the outlet valve when the housing is loose and remove the filter housing.

3.  Change the filter housing o-ring annually and only use silicone lubricant (never use vaseline).

4.  Clean and wipe off the filter housing threads, on the housing and inside the head, at every filter change, and never lubricate the threads.
5.  Clean and sanitize filter housings whenever changing filters.  Simply wipe out the filter housing, add a small amount of household bleach (tablespoon), rinse out the housing, and install a new filter cartridge.
6.  When tightening the filter housing "never use a filter wrench".  Hand tighten the housing only to seat the o-ring.  Using the wrench will flatten the O-ring causing it to leak and make even harder to get the housing off next time.
7.  When replacing the filter leave the water valve on the outlet side of the filter off.  Turn the water on slowly to the filter housing while holding down the pressure relief valve to release the air from the filter housing until all air is released then open the incoming water valve all the way. If there is no pressure relief button open a laundry tub faucet while turning the water back on to the filter to bleed the air off.

4" x 10" Big Blue Housing with a red pressure-relief button.

There is also another class of whole house sediment filters commonly known as a Rusco or Blow Down filter.  These filters have a screen inside to filter sediment, sand, and debris from wells.  These type of filters can be cleaned by opening a valve at the bottom and "blowing down" the filter periodically. Every 2- 3 months normally. These filters are a frequent choice for well drillers when sand is a problem coming from a well.

Rusco blow down filter

*Warning: Never use a cartridge filter for drinking water on non-potable water supply.

A small sample of filter housings and cartridge filters available.

When installing a filter housing, for any purpose, it should always be mounted securely to a wall for ease of changing filters and to protect the plumbing along with shutoff valves before and after to isolate the housing when changing filters.  Some filter housings come with a built-in shutoff on top and a pressure relief valve to aid in filter changing.

A properly installed prefilter housing before a water softener

In our next blog regarding "Water Filters", we will be discussing whole house filtration using backwashing filters and automatic regenerating filter systems to remove everything from sediment to iron, odor, arsenic, radium and more.


Good Days and Good Water!


R.J. DeChene,
The Water Softener Blog 2017

Below are links related to topics discussed in this blog article;

What is a filter micron rating?

NSF - Contaminant Guide

What do carbon filters remove?

What are chloramines?

Pentair Water Filtration

Wiki How - Choosing a home water filter

WQA - Perceptible Water Quality Issues


© Copyright The Water Softener Blog 2017. All rights reserved

Is rusty water causing the wife to become a redhead? Here is how to fix that.

Is the wife normally blonde but suddenly finding herself becoming a Redhead?  You could try telling her "red hair" is in vogue these days and she looks great as a redhead but that's probably not the best approach to solving the problem or keeping her happy!  I have a better idea.  Tell her you can fix the water and she will always be that naturally beautiful blonde you married!  You can make that happen.  She can have beautiful blonde hair again and maybe even take off a few years in the process. Great water makes everything better and her happier!

The culprits causing the problems?
Iron, Manganese, and hydrogen sulfide are the most obvious problems with well water, causing staining on everything and everyone Hydrogen sulfide also has that nasty, rotten egg smell.  All three can cause problems, even at very low levels.  The good news is you don't have to live with water like this because all these water problems can be fixed and you can be the HERO.

Fixing water like this does require some experience though.  Far too often I run into homeowners that have in-line filters before and after water softeners trying to remove iron and odor from the water. This can work to a certain extent, in the short term, but there are much better solutions to fix these water problems that will actually give you the water you are looking for and cost less in the long run.

A proper water analysis is the key to finding the right water treatment solution to fix any water problem.  Basic water testing should always include Hardness, Iron, PH, Nitrates, and TDS on well water.  Manganese and Hydrogen sulfide should also be tested for when suspected.  When testing for iron it is important to determine what type of iron is present to determine the proper water treatment method.  At times it may be necessary to have a more comprehensive water analysis done by a certified water testing lab if concerns about the water arise that can not be tested for with a basic, in-home, water test kit such as Bacteria, Arsenic, VOC's, Etc.  A true water treatment professional should always insist on using a certified lab to be sure the correct water treatment system is recommended when any "red flags" pop up with in-home water testing.  Quite frankly they would be stupid not to.  Just to make sure they recommend the right solution.

Types of problem water:
1. Ferrous - Referred to as "Clear Water" iron.  The iron that is in solution/dissolved still. The easiest way to check for this is simply to draw a glass of water and look to see if the water is clear.  Generally, this means all or the majority of iron is ferrous iron.

2. Ferric - Referred to as "Red Water" Iron.  This type of iron has been oxidized and shows up as rusty water. When that glass of clear water sits out all night and is all rusty in the morning the air has oxidized the iron and it falls out of the water. This is the process of ferrous iron turning into ferric iron. Heating the water will cause the same thing to occur.  Ferric iron can also form "Colloidal" particulates creating very fine particles of oxidized iron that can pass through everything and stain everything.

3. Manganese - Manganese shows up as blackish, grey, or brown staining on fixtures, hair, fingernails, and clothing.  It can leave a bad taste in water and when oxidized will give off odors similar to hydrogen sulfide.

4. Iron Bacteria - Nuisance bacteria present in the well water combine with iron to form "Iron Bacteria".  The most noticeable evidence of this will be in the toilet tank.  Iron bacteria form stringy filaments which will be present in the toilet tank on the float, fill valve, and sides of the tank.  Particularly at the water level.  Iron bacteria can also cause many different odors in the water such as fishy, earthy, musty, and oily smells at times.

5. Organic Iron - Referred to as Tannins.  Tannins are caused when low-PH water and decaying vegetation combine with iron causing tea-colored water.  This is usually evident in the toilet bowl with discolored weak tea-looking water.

6. Hydrogen Sulfide - Hydrogen Sulfide imparts a rotten egg smell to the water as it aerates out of the water. Small amounts of H2S can be removed by air induction systems and carbon tanks (short-term).  High amounts of H2S (3+ppm) can be very corrosive and require chlorination and filtration.

7. Low PH Water - Water low in PH (6.5 or below) is considered acidic and needs to have the PH elevated by introducing calcite to the water, before any treatment system, which will in turn elevate the PH to neutral or slightly alkaline for filtration.

Tannin's in Well Water

Iron Stained Shower Grout

Rust (Ferric Iron) In Toilet Tank

The PH of water plays an important role in how we treat iron removal also.  A water softener can

remove ferrous (clear water iron) iron if the PH is from 6.5 to 7.0 as long as the iron levels are relatively low at .1ppm to 1ppm.  Higher amounts of iron can be removed by softening but the water-softening resin eventually becomes fouled by iron so this is not the most practical, or long-term, solution for consistent iron removal.  When the PH is above 7.0 it is necessary to treat the water, before a water softener, with a filtration system to remove iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide for the best quality water.  This is why a proper water analysis is so critical in determining the correct water treatment methods and options to fix your water and keep the wife, with blonde hair, happy.

Before we get any more in-depth into this let's make something perfectly clear.  Filter housings before a water softener, with a cartridge filter that gets replaced periodically, are NOT

iron filters!  Filter cartridges are sold as sediment, iron, rust, and odor filters but they are designed for "sediment removal" only.  Filter cartridges may reduce some iron but as the iron passes through the cartridge it oxidizes (Ferric Iron) and passes right through the water softener. Carbon filters may remove odor for a very short period and when the filter fails the hydrogen sulfide fouls out the resin causing an even bigger problem and premature failure of the water softener.  Filter housings can harbor bacteria also, potentially fouling the water softener.  Bacteria can be introduced into the water from your hands when changing filters.  It is imperative to sanitize the filter housing when changing filters.  If it is determined sediment and or scale is coming from the well this method is a definite consideration before a water softener.  Otherwise "DON'T DO IT"!

Filtration systems generally have 3-4 stages for regeneration. I prefer to have filter systems that can run by gallons and have a day override for regeneration purposes.
1. Backwash Cycle - Reverses the flow of water in the tank to lift the media and rinse off particulates.
2. Draw Cycle - Air or chemical draw to aid in the oxidation process
3. Slow Rinse - Rinses off excess oxidants and starts to compact media.
4. Final Rinse - Fast rinse to compact media bed and prepare for service.

Filtration Media:  There are so many different types of filter media and multiple filter media options for the same application it is just staggering and confusing.  Some of the filter media in use today are Birm, Greensand, Filter Ag, Pyrolox, MTM, Zeolite, Coconut Shell Carbon, Centaur Carbon, and others depending on the application.  The most prevalent filter media for iron removal is still Birm but my preference would be Zeolite media.

This is an extremely small sample of base media, filter media, and resins.

The Solutions:  If you have what we refer to as "Problem Water", Iron bacteria, Tannin's, and Low PH,  I would leave it up to a water treatment professional to help you solve your specific water problems as they are more familiar with the water chemistry in their area.  This can get rather complicated at times when faced with challenging water problems so let's just keep this simple.  Here is a basic water analysis you might find with well water.  We will recommend filter system options that work best.

For this application, we would suggest a 10x54 filter tank that runs by gallons or a 3-day override option.  Single tank systems where the air is drawn directly into the filtration tank are the best solution.

Example:
1. 2.5ppm Ferrous Iron, .5ppm Manganese, PH 7.4, 20gpg Hardness:
10x54 Air Induction filter system with 1.25 cubic ft of BIRM or ZEOLITE filter media.
System settings - 500 gallons and 3-day override.  Backwash - 15min / 40min air draw / 6min rinse.
Water Softener: 9x48 / 32k capacity that would regenerate about every 7 days.  *See blog article on "How Water Softeners Work".

In my experience, this is really the best option to treat water like this. This option offers low maintenance, quality water, and longer run life on the media.  You can expect to get 10+ years with this system before having to re-bed/replace the media.

I hope this helps you keep that blonde happy and give your family many long years of great water.



Good Days and Good Water!

R.J. DeChene,
The Water Softener Blog


More information regarding topics of this blog are in the links below:

Six Scientific Differences (and Facts) Between Blondes and Brunettes

Treatment systems for household water supplies: Iron and manganese removal

PH - Water properties

Water Quality Association

Groundwater-Quality

Iron Bacteria What You Need to Know


© Copyright 2016 The Water Softener Blog. All rights reserved

How Do I Fix My Hard Water Problems?

That is a very good question!  The simple answer is install a water softener.  The real answer is more

complicated but it doesn't have to be complicated as long as you do some homework to make sure you purchase the right water softener system to solve your hard water problems.

There are a lot of options out there now for so called "Salt Free Water Softeners".  Magnetic gadgets (to change the polarity of the water),  medias to bond the calcium and magnesium together (to make a larger molecular particle) that, theoretically, won't fall out of solution as easily, etc, etc.   At this point all of that is just "Hocus Pocus" and a money grab.  Here is a good example of how they get your money, then back down.  I get a call from a young couple that are having well water issues. They ask if I could come out to test their water and see what is going on with it.  They spent $3000 a couple months back on this system they ordered on-line that goes onto the plumbing after the well tank.  It has several lights on it and wire that wraps around the copper pipe to condition the water.  But their water is still bad. The dishes are getting ruined and the clothes are getting ruined from rust stains. So we test the water with the magnetic gadget in place and sure enough hard, rusty water.  The husband wants to be reassured the magnetic gadget isn't doing anything so I have him remove it, run the water from the well until the pump turns on and off several times to assure them we have a true well water sample and the plumbing is flushed.  Same water as before, 20 grains of hardness and 1 ppm of iron.

Soft Water On The Left / Hard Water On The Right

At this point I have to prove my point so I run their water through my mini water softener and show them how a water softener works and how it actually softens and conditions the water to remove hardness and iron. Comparing all three samples, well water, water through the magnetic gadget and soft water.  They are convinced now that a water softener is the only way to fix their water problems and decide on a single tank digital metered water softener.  The problem is they just spent $3000 on that gadget?  I tell them lets call the company, express your dissatisfaction with the product and ask for your money back in full.  Five minutes on the phone, sure we understand, it didn't work for you, we are sorry that is the case, we will refund your money in full and apply it to your credit card.  The wife says she will be glad to ship the system back if they cover the shipping cost.  That's OK you don't need to send it back, just keep it.  WOW that was easy!  I waited to tell them this was the third time I have had this happen!  Full refund, no questions asked!  That tells you how big of a scam it is and how much money they are really making off of it!  Now they have a water softener and are very happy customers. For a LOT less than $3000!  They referred me to their friends that bought the same magnetic gadget. They are happy soft water customers now also!  Obviously the point is you can't fix your water with hocus pocus magic gadgets.  The only way to fix your hard water problems is with a salt or potassium based water softener system.

Fleck 9100 Twin Tank Water Softener

When we are in a home testing water we always treat it as a consultation rather then selling you something.  The water analysis and your families water usage really tells us how to treat the water and recommend the proper water treatment system that will be efficient for your home.  It's not one size fits all.  I have NEVER seen two families that use the same amount of water.  Even on the same water supply, like a community well, the size of the water softener recommended will vary depending on the water usage.  Always have your water tested before deciding on a water softener system.  A Certified Water Testing Lab is a good source for a complete water analysis.

A complete water analysis is the key to water treatment solutions

Examples:
Water chemistry:  20gpg hardness, .5ppm of ferrous iron.

1. The Smith's have 4 people and use 300 gallons of water a day on a pretty regular basis.  This family would use a Single Tank metered 45k grain capacity softener that would regenerate every 5 days.

2. The Wilson's, across the street, have 4 people and they use 700 gallons daily during the week and have used over 2000 gallons of water on a Saturday!  This family would need a Twin Tank 60k (per tank) water softener to assure they always have soft water even during those days they use 2000 plus gallons of water.

So you see every home and situation is different.  The best way to assure you have a water softener system that will give you trouble free service for many years is do your homework, get a proper water analysis done to determine what system is best for your family.  If this seems to be too big a task to take on yourself then research your local water treatment companies on-line for customer testimonials, the Better Business Bureau and you can find Certified Water Treatment Professionals in your area by going to the Water Quality Association at WQA.org.  They have a database of qualified professionals in your area to help you with your hard water solutions. If you would like to install your own system I would suggest purchasing a system from a local plumbing supply, not the box stores.  A plumbing supply company will help you with how to install the water softener and have support for you if needed.  There are also several reputable on-line suppliers with great support and competitive pricing that can help you choose the proper water treatment system for your home and family.


Good Water and Good Days!


R.J. DeChene,
The Water Softener Blog 2016

Below are links relating to topics discussed in this blog:

Angies List - Do salt-free water softeners work

AWGT - Solutions to hard water problems
 
Drinking Water Test Kits - KAR Laboratories, Inc.

How Do Water Softener Systems Work?

Popular Mechanics - How Water Softeners Work

Water Quality Association

On-Line Supplier- Ohio Pure Water

© Copyright 2016 The Water Softener Blog. All rights reserved

"Water" The Most Important Resource!

There are so many subjects to cover I am in a bit of a quandary as where to start our first blog post about water treatment.  I guess we will start with the most important subject and what this is all about, "Water".

Every drop of water on earth has been here since the beginning of time.  71% of the earth's surface is covered by water. Of that water 96.5% is in our oceans as salt water. That leaves 3.5% left as fresh water but 69% of that water is locked up in glaciers and the polar ice caps. This leaves less than 1% of the total volume of water on earth available as fresh water and most of that is deep underground and unavailable to us.  So you see there is actually very little water available for all of us to live our daily lives.  That is why it is so important to protect and conserve our water resources and do what we can individually to insure this precious resource is available for future generations.

The Water Cycle

The "Water Cycle" plays the key role in determining how and where these precious water resources are available and distributed. With the constant cycle of evaporation, condensation and precipitation these water resources move about our planet.  The state of California suffered through one of the states worst droughts in it's history from 2012 to 2016.  The so called "El-Nino", that hit California this winter and early spring with heavy snow pack and rain show the dramatic effects of the water cycle and how quickly things can change.  The people of California are still a little skeptical that this is the recovery they need but they are at least breathing a sigh of relief now that their water resources are on the path to recovery.  What a valuable lesson learned in our lifetime.

Lake Oroville California, USA. 2013 on left and 2016 on right.

I think we will make this short and sweet.  Point made about our water resources and how we all need to protect them every day.  The simplest way is to not let the water run constantly while brushing our teeth.  You never know where that water may be tomorrow!

Below are links to articles and websites with more information discussed in this blog topic.

How much water is on earth?

USGS - California Science Center

The USGS Water Science School - What is the water cycle?

The Nature Conservancy - Protecting Water for People and Nature

Ways to Protect and Conserve Groundwater


Good Water, Good Life!

The Water Softener Blog



© Copyright 2016 The Water Softener Blog. All rights reserved

Blogs Away!

Welcome to "The Water Softener Blog" and thank you for visiting our site.  This is our first post with our new blog site!  There is a lot more content to come.

Now that I look at it further, that may not be the best picture to launch our new blog. The "Blogs Away" picture reminds me of the song "You Dropped A Bomb On Me, Baby" by the Gap Band from 1982!  We promise you there won't be any bombs dropped here, just helpful information.

After thirty plus years in the water treatment business I decided there is a definite need for a new type of water treatment blog.  One that is practical, informative and useful for anyone dealing with water issues.  Where you can find the proper solutions, answers and options to your water treatment problems or concerns from a seasoned water treatment professional.  There are far too many water blogs started by people that pretend to be knowledgeable about water treatment but all they really know is what they researched on the web, possibly a few books or articles they read.  There is nothing better than first hand knowledge and practical experience solving tough water treatment problems and that is what we intend to bring you every day with The Water Softener Blog.  The majority of water treatment/softener blogs are simply created for profit and in reality offer very little in actual real water treatment solutions.  It's the same old thing with almost every water treatment blog.  They are just there to generate income with their blog with no real useful content to help you make an informed decision.

Don't get me wrong. This blog is intended to generate income also, but more importantly it is designed to help you make an educated, informed and confident decision when you need to fix your water.  If you have a water treatment company help you with your water problems  "The Water Softener Blog" will give you the tools you need to get through the double talk by many so called "Sales Professionals" that are just there to make a buck and not really fix your problem.  There will be videos to help you repair/rebuild almost any water softener valve, manuals for practically every water treatment system in the market, links to many sites for useful information, links to trustworthy on-line water treatment dealers, timely articles regarding water problems we are currently facing and articles to walk you through how to choose a water softener/treatment system and how to program it properly for your application.  As a matter of fact I have other water treatment blog sites refer their customers/viewers to previous blogs I developed because they were so informative and helped people understand exactly what they needed to look for in a water treatment system.  That is what encouraged us to start this new blog concept.

So please excuse us while we develop our blog site. We promise you will not be disappointed!

As one of my old fishing buddies says with the opening of his weekly television fishing show,

"Sit Back, Cause Here We Go"!



Good Days and Good Water!

The Water Softener Blog



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