Is rusty water causing strife in the home for you and the wife?
Is her blonde hair suddenly turning brown? While complimenting the hair color is nice, the better choice is better water. Rusty water, iron stains, or rotten-egg odors (H2S) are common with well water, and can all cause issues with hair color. The good news is that all these water issues are fixable with the right water treatment system.
Top culprits
- Iron (ferrous/ferric) — orange stains on showers, sinks, laundry, and hair.
- Manganese — gray/black staining; can add off-tastes and odors.
- Hydrogen sulfide (H2S) — “rotten egg” odor; corrosive at higher levels.
Pro tip: Cartridge housings before a softener are not iron filters. They’re for sediment. Dissolved iron/manganese passes through and can foul softener resin, and housings can harbor bacteria if not sanitized at each change.
Start with a proper water analysis
Baseline tests should include pH, hardness, iron, manganese, H2S, nitrates, TDS; add bacteria, arsenic, and VOCs if any red flags appear. Use an accredited lab when in doubt.
Types of problem water (what they mean)
- Ferrous (clear-water) iron — dissolved; water looks clear at first, then turns rusty as it oxidizes.
- Ferric (oxidized) iron — particles visible; causes orange/rusty water and stains; can be colloidal.
- Manganese — black/gray/brown stains on fixtures, hair, and clothing; may produce H2S-like odors when oxidized.
- Iron bacteria — slimy, stringy films (check toilet tank parts); can cause earthy/fishy odors.
- Organic color (tannins) — tea-colored water from organics + iron, often with low pH.
- Hydrogen sulfide — odor that intensifies as water aerates; low levels: air + carbon; higher: oxidation + filtration.
- Low pH — below 6.5 is acidic; raise with calcite before iron filtration for best performance.
pH matters
A softener can remove small amounts of ferrous iron (~0.1–1.0 ppm) when pH is ~6.5–7.0, but resin will foul over time. With pH ≥ 7.0 or higher iron/manganese/H2S, oxidize and filter before the softener. If pH < 6.5, raise it with calcite prior to filtration.
Why an iron filtration system beats inline filters
Dedicated oxidation/filtration tanks handle dissolved iron, manganese, and H2S and protect downstream water softeners from the softener resin fouling out due to iron, H2S, and manganese.
- Backwash — lifts media and flushes particulates.
- Air/chemical draw — introduces oxidant for conversion.
- Slow rinse — clears oxidant and begins bed compaction.
- Fast rinse — compacts media and returns to service.
Media options (application-dependent)
Birm, greensand, zeolite, Filox/MnO2, catalytic carbon (e.g., Centaur), coconut-shell carbon, and others—chosen to match your chemistry and flow rates.
Recommended setup (example)
Water analysis: 2.5 ppm ferrous iron, 0.5 ppm manganese, pH 7.4, hardness 20 gpg.
Filter: 10×54 air-induction iron filter with ~1.25 cu ft of
Birm,
Zeolite, or Filox-type media.
Typical settings: ~500 gallons with 3-day override; ~20 minute backwash / ~40 minute air draw / ~6 minute rinse.
Softener: ~9×48 (≈32k) on-demand; ~1,200 gallons between regenerations or 7-day override.
Expect 3–5 years between filter media rebedding of a correctly sized iron filtration system. Better water = fewer stains, happier hair/skin, longer appliance life, and a happier wife.
I wish you Good days and Good water!
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Thank you, Ray