Sunday, August 14, 2016

"Water Filters" part 1 - When, What, Why and How to use a whole house water filtration system.

"Water Filters". Water filters cover the gambit from simple faucet filters, refrigerator filters, in-line filters to filter housings with a replaceable filter cartridge to all types of whole house backwashing / regenerating filtration systems that remove, iron, odors, manganese, radium, lead, turbidity and a plethora of other water problems.  This subject covers such a wide range of water problems it could take many blog articles to cover just the basics of water filtration.  One thing I know for certain though is what the typical consumer considers a water filter and what a water treatment professional would consider a water filter is totally different.

In the first "Water Filters" article we will look at filter housings and filtration cartridge options.  Water filters installed for the whole house are called, Point of Entry (POE).  Water filters used for specific locations, like under a kitchen sink, are called, Point of Use (POU).  The most basic filtration is a filter housing with a replaceable filter cartridge.
Water filter housings and filter cartridges
Filter housings come in almost any size for many different uses.  A standard filter housing for residential whole-house use would be 3" x 10" (lower left in the picture) up to 4" x 20" (upper right in the picture, here).

The problem is these replaceable filter cartridges are sold everywhere for rust, sediment, odor, and chlorine removal for water.  Although they will definitely help reduce those things, depending on what filter is used, cartridge filters are not always the best options to do so and can plug up quickly causing replacement of filters frequently.  This can become an expensive proposition as filter cartridges vary from a few dollars to over a hundred dollars.  They can also significantly reduce water pressure and water volume.  These style filters were very popular when well casings were steel.  With steel well casings, scale, sediment, and rust commonly come off the inside of the well casing causing service issues with water treatment equipment.  Cartridge filters, before a water softener, were a necessity to remove any sediment from this type of well.  Today most drilled wells use PVC casings so scale and sediment issues have generally been resolved to the point where filter cartridge housings typically are no longer necessary.  A good example where such filters are still an economical choice with good results would be the water issues in Flint, MI.  Using a simple filter housing, with a block carbon filter, under the sink and tied into the kitchen cold water will greatly reduce the lead content, chlorine, and turbidity issues for drinking water.  However, the filters would need to be replaced frequently, depending on how much water is used and the incoming water quality.

Replaceable filter cartridges are rated by "micron size" and/or specific contaminant removal.  Filter cartridges come in micron ratings from .35 mic, to .5 mic. 1 mic absolute on up to 50 microns.

 Cord wound, Pleated, and Polyspun Filter cartridges
Examples:
1.  A 10-50 micron sediment filter may be used before a water softener.
2.  An activated carbon filter may be used for chlorine reduction.
3.  A dual gradient filter such as a DGD 2501 removes larger particles on the outside (25 microns) and
increasingly smaller particles as it passes toward the center of the filter (1 micron) and is generally used as pre-filtration for laboratory use, machinery, and reverse osmosis systems.

The specific filter you may need depends on the water problem that needs addressing.  If it's for sediment removal, before a water softener, I would recommend a 20-50 micron sediment filter preferably in a 4"x 10" or 20" BB housing. Cord wound, Poly spun, or Pleated filter cartridges are recommended for sediment removal.

There are many types of carbon and carbon filters for different water problems. As discussed earlier block carbon filters are frequently utilized to reduce lead content in drinking water.  Another concern with municipal water supplies is "Chloramines" which are a combination of chlorine and ammonia additives added to municipal water supplies for disinfection.  There are specifically formulated carbons to remove chloramine from your drinking water.  Before using any filter for specific drinking water issues check the NSF guidelines for filter certification based on particular contaminant removal.
Block carbon filters 



Filter Changing Tips:
 1.  Always change filter cartridges at regular intervals.  Change the whole house filters every three months or sooner depending on the water quality and the amount of water used.
 2.  If you find you have difficulty removing the filter housing initially. Make sure the incoming water is off.  Open a nearby faucet to relieve the water pressure, hold the pressure relief valve down, close the outlet valve when the housing is loose, and remove the filter housing.
3.  Change the filter housing o-ring annually and use only silicone lubricant (never vaseline).
4.  Clean and wipe off the filter housing threads, on the housing and inside the head, at every filter change, and never lubricate the threads.
5.  Clean and sanitize filter housings whenever changing filters.  Simply wipe out the filter housing, add a small amount of household bleach (tablespoon), rinse the housing out, and install a new filter cartridge.
6.  When tightening the filter housing "never use a filter wrench".  Hand-tighten the housing only to seat the o-ring.  Using the wrench will flatten the O-ring causing it to leak and make even harder to get the housing off next time.
7.  When replacing the filter leave the water valve on the outlet side of the filter off.  Turn the water on slowly to the filter housing while holding down the pressure relief valve to release the air from the filter housing until all air is released then open the incoming water valve all the way. If there is no pressure relief button open a laundry tub faucet while turning the water back on to the filter to bleed the air off.
4" x 10" Big Blue Housing with a red pressure relief button.



There is also another class of whole house sediment filters commonly known as a Rusco or Blow Down filter.  These filters have a screen inside to filter sediment, sand, and debris from wells.  These types of water filters can be cleaned by opening a valve at the bottom and "blowing down" the filter periodically. Every 2- 3 months normally. These filters are a frequent choice for well drillers when sand is a problem coming from a well.
Rusco blow-down filter


*Warning: Never use a cartridge filter for drinking water on a non-potable water supply.

Different filter housings and filter cartridges
A small sample of filter housings and cartridge filters are available.
When installing a filter housing, for any purpose, it should always be mounted securely to a wall for ease of changing filters and to protect the plumbing along with shutoff valves before and after to isolate the housing when changing filters.  Some filter housings incorporate a built-in shutoff on top and a pressure relief valve to aid in the filter housing removal and filter change.

Filter housing installed before a water softener
A properly installed prefilter housing before a water softener

In our next blog regarding "Water Filters", we will discuss whole-house filtration systems using backwashing filters and automatic regenerating filter systems to remove everything from sediment to iron, odor, arsenic, radium, and more.


I wish you, Good Days and Good Water!


Ray McConnell,
The Water Softener Blog


Below are links related to the topics discussed in this blog article;







WQA - Perceptible Water Quality Issues


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Monday, June 27, 2016

Is rusty water causing strife in the home for you and the wife? Here's how to fix that!

Is the wife normally blonde but suddenly finds herself becoming a Redhead?  You could try telling her "red hair" is in vogue these days and she looks great as a redhead but that's probably not the best approach to solving the problem or keeping her happy!  I have a better idea.  Let her know you can fix the water and she will always be that naturally beautiful blonde you married!  You can make that happen and she can have blonde hair again.  Great water makes everything better and her happier!

What are the culprits causing the problems?
Iron, Manganese, and hydrogen sulfide are the most obvious problems with well water, causing staining on everything and everyone Hydrogen sulfide also has that nasty, rotten egg smell.  All three can cause problems, even at very low levels.  The good news is you don't have to live with water like this because all these water problems can be fixed and you can be the HERO.

Fixing water like this does require some experience though.  Far too often.  I run into homeowners with in-line filters before and after water softeners trying to remove iron and odor from their water. This can work to a certain extent, in the short term, but there are much better solutions to fix these water problems that will give you the water you are looking for and cost less in the long run.

A proper water analysis is the key to finding the right water treatment solution to fix any water problem.  Basic water testing should always include Hardness, Iron, PH, Nitrates, and TDS with well water.  Manganese and Hydrogen sulfide should also be tested for when suspected.  When testing for iron it is important to determine what type of iron is present to determine the proper water treatment method.  At times it may be necessary to have a more comprehensive water analysis done by a certified water testing lab if concerns about the water arise that can not be tested for with a basic, in-home, water test kit such as Bacteria, Arsenic, VOCs, Etc.  A true water treatment professional should always insist on using a certified lab to be sure the correct water treatment system is recommended when any "red flags" pop up with in-home water testing.  Quite frankly they would be stupid not to.  To make sure they recommend the right system to solve the water problems and have happy customers.


Types of problem water:
1. Ferrous Iron - Referred to as "Clear Water" iron.  Iron that is in solution/dissolved in the water. The easiest way to check for this is to draw a glass of water and look to see if the water is clear.  Generally, this means all or the majority of iron is ferrous iron. As the water sits for a few minutes the iron will oxidize and fall out to the bottom creating "Ferrous Iron."

2. Ferric Iron- Referred to as "Red Water" or "Oxidized" Iron.  This type of iron has been oxidized and shows up as rusty water. When that glass of clear water sits out all night and is all rusty in the morning the air has oxidized the iron and falls out of the water. This is the process of ferrous iron turning into ferric iron. Heating the water will cause the same thing to occur.  Ferric iron can also form "Colloidal" particulates creating fine particles of oxidized iron that can pass through everything and stain everything.

3. Manganese - Manganese appears as blackish, grey, or brown staining on fixtures, hair, fingernails, and clothing.  It can leave a bad taste in water and when oxidized will give off odors similar to hydrogen sulfide.

4. Iron Bacteria - Nuisance bacteria in well water combine with iron to form "Iron Bacteria".  The most noticeable evidence of this will be in the toilet tank.  Iron bacteria form stringy filaments which will be present in the toilet tank on the float, fill valve, and sides of the tank.  Iron bacteria can also cause many types of odors in the water such as fishy, earthy, musty, and even oily smells, from the water.

5. Organic Iron - Referred to as Tannins.  Tannins are caused when low-PH water and decaying vegetation combine with iron causing tea-colored water.  This is usually evident in the toilet bowl with discolored weak tea-looking water.

6. Hydrogen Sulfide - Hydrogen Sulfide imparts a rotten egg smell to the water as it aerates out of the water.  Small amounts of H2S can be removed by air induction systems and carbon tanks (short-term).  High counts of H2S (3+ppm) can be very corrosive and require chlorination and filtration.

7. Low PH Water - Water low in PH (6.5 or below) is considered acidic and needs to be raised by introducing calcite to the water, before any treatment system.  This will elevate the PH to neutral or slightly alkaline for proper filtration removal.

Tannin's in Well Water

Iron Stained Shower Grout
Rust (Ferric Iron) In Toilet Tank

The PH of water plays an important role in how we treat iron removal.  A water softener can
remove ferrous (clear water iron) iron if the PH is from 6.5 to 7.0 as long as the iron levels are relatively low at .1ppm to 1ppm.  Higher amounts of iron can be removed by softening but water-softening resin eventually becomes fouled by iron. So that is not the most practical, or long-term, solution for consistent iron removal and iron-free, stain-free, water.  When the PH is above 7.0 it is necessary to treat the water, before a water softener, with a filtration system to remove iron, manganese, and hydrogen sulfide for the best quality water.  This is why a proper water analysis is critical in determining the correct water treatment methods and options to fix your water and keep the wife, blonde, and happy.

Before we get more in-depth into this let's make something "perfectly clear."  Filter housings before a water softener, with a cartridge filter that gets replaced periodically, are NOT
iron filters!  Filter cartridges are sold as sediment, iron, rust, and odor filters but are designed for "sediment removal" only.  Filter cartridges may reduce some iron but as the iron passes through the cartridge it oxidizes (Ferric Iron) and passes right through the water softener.  Carbon filters may remove odor for a very short period but when the filter fails the hydrogen sulfide fouls out the media causing an even bigger problem and premature failure of the water softener.  Filter housings can harbor bacteria also, potentially fouling the water softener.  Bacteria can also be introduced into the water from your hands when changing filter cartridges.  It is imperative to sanitize the filter housing when changing filters.  If it is determined sediment and or scale is coming from the well this method is a definite consideration before a water softener.  

Filtration systems generally have 3-4 stages for regeneration. I prefer filter systems that can run by gallons and have a day override for regeneration purposes.
1. Backwash Cycle - Reverses the flow of water in the tank to lift the media and rinse off particulates.
2. Draw Cycle - Air or chemical draw to aid in the oxidation process
3. Slow Rinse - Rinses off excess oxidants and starts to compact media.
4. Final Rinse - Fast rinse to compact media bed and prepare for service.

Filtration Media:  There are so many different types of filter media and multiple filter media options for the same application it is just staggering and confusing.  Some filter media used in the water treatment industry today are Birm, Greensand, Filter Ag, Pyrolox, MTM, Zeolite, Coconut Shell Carbon, Centaur Carbon, and others depending on the application.  The most prevalent filter media for iron removal is Birm, but many options are available for filter media, depending on the application.

This is an example of base media, filter media, and resins currently used for water treatment.

The Solutions:  If you have what we refer to as "Problem Water", Iron bacteria, Tannin's, and Low PH,  I would leave it up to a water treatment professional to help you solve your specific water problems as they are more familiar with the water chemistry in their area.  This can get rather complicated when faced with challenging water problems so let's keep this simple.  Here is a basic water analysis you might find with well water.  We will recommend filter system options that work best.

For this application. We suggest a 10x54 filtration system that runs according to gallons or a 3-day override option.  Single tank systems where the air is drawn directly into the filtration tank are the best solution.

Example:
1. 2.5ppm Ferrous Iron, .5ppm Manganese, PH 7.4, 20gpg Hardness:
10x54 Air Induction filter system with 1.25 cubic ft of BIRMZEOLITE, or FILOX filter media.
System settings - 500 gallons and 3-day override.  Backwash - 20min / 40min air draw / 6min rinse.
Water Softener: 9x48 / 32k capacity that would regenerate about every 1200 gallons or 7 days override.  
*See our blog article on "How Water Softeners Work".

These are the best water treatment options for water chemistry like this. This option offers low maintenance, quality water, and a longer run-life on the media.  You can expect 3-5+ years with this system before having to re-bed/replace the filter media in the iron filtration tank.

I hope this helps you keep that blonde happy and gives your family many years of great water.



Good Days and Good Water!

Ray McConnell,
The Water Softener Blog


More information regarding topics of this blog are in the links below:

Six Scientific Differences (and Facts) Between Blondes and Brunettes

Treatment systems for household water supplies: Iron and manganese removal

PH - Water properties

Water Quality Association

Groundwater-Quality

Iron Bacteria What You Need to Know


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